Kaustav Sarkar

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Surviving Death

Posted by Kaustav Sarkar on August 4, 2018
Posted in: Personal. Leave a comment

August 4, 2017. A date I can not forget. I am not sure how to feel, as I recall how I nearly escaped death to be alive today.

It was a gloomy day. Gloomy not because of the weather but of reasons I could not come to terms with. Someone I cared about was leaving the day after and it was hard for me to accept that.

All of my recent days then were consumed in thoughts that were utter bullshit, or so it feels now but mattered back then. So I was not in a state of mind that I could call normal but somehow was breathing through the days. I met my loved one for a while in the evening before our ways parted forever. It was already a huge emotional and mental turmoil I was dealing with that it wasn’t enough but the world had to inflict me with physical pain too. In the process of trying to move on with life and work as I was adviced, I set out for work trying to run away from my own self. While returning from work around 9 in the night on my scooty, the rearview mirror happened to collide with the same that of the bike coming from the opposite direction. As this was normal and happens quite often given the road conditions and the congestion, I did not look back.

The guy on the bike chased me down and parked his bike in front of mine while I was on the bend in the road. He came forward with a force trying to snatch away the keys from my scooty. The rearview mirror of his bike was broken and he demanded compensation of about Rs 2000 from me, which I obviously refused. I had not taken off my helmet and I could see the guy trying to get a glance at my face. He yelled, abused, people gathered around him, some apparently happened to know him in the locality who raised their voice in support of him without even knowing what happened.  Some people just gathered around to watch a good street show. I was blamed for driving on to the opposite lane and what not. Still, my helmet on, voice calm, composed, I did not budge to his allegations. I did not argue but just held on to the point that I did not commit any mistake which I knew I was sure of. I don’t know why and how but I didn’t feel like yelling back agitated by his abusive words. After a lot of heated temperament from one side, I seemed to have pissed him off even more as I remained calm.  Few people from the gathering tried to mitigate and somehow it seemed to come to an end with him loosing in his own argument. However, it was not destined to end so soon.

As we say here ” do you know who I am” he said those golden words and I merrily replied no, like casually. This did not go down well with him. He literally moved towards giving death threats from just cursing. As the gathering cleared and then he let me get back on the road, he started following me dangerously coming close to my scooty trying to intimidate me. I was near the bend of Hospital more in our locality as he was gradually tending to push me towards the edge close to the big body of water by the roadside. Realizing this was going elsewhere, in a moment’s notice as the traffic gave a scope I turned around and tried taking a different route. He followed back, came with his bike gruntling and kicked at my scooty twice trying to throw me off balance threatening me to kill then and there on the road in front of St Thomas School. I said calmly “you have had the chance to vent your anguish and I haven’t said a word. this is enough for a thing like this. It’s better you take your path and let me get on to my course back home. Whatever happened was unfortunate that your rearview glass got broken and my did not though both collided. It was nothing intentional. So let it stop.” But given the nature and his state of mind he was bent on revenge and would not take a step back until he had caused enough damage to me. The road seemed deserted almost, the gathering had vanished by then, shops closed or closing soon. It did not feel safe to stand and argue with him in such situation and place. He constantly kept reminding me that he hails from “purosree” – a part of our town known for nefarious activities.

Another fleeting moment, a truck arrived and I chanced on an opportunity to take lead and vanish away from his vicinity while someone tried to engage him by the road side in a conversation enquiring about our encounter. But as fate would have it, he followed again and with the gruntling noise of his bike again hit my scooty from the side. Somehow I held on to my balance. Before I could stop he came again from the side and tried kicking again as if vastly influenced by the stunts shown in Bollywood movies. Unfortunately, this time I could not escape so did he. Somehow our vehicles got tangled together and we both fell on to the ground with our respective vehicles.

As I fell on the ground, I could feel my helmet bouncing on the road twice, still in the motion of the fallen scooty I was dragged along with it on the road. As I watched him too being dragged along with his fallen bike through the opening in my helmet, it felt weird. Though I could feel my backside being scratched from the rough surface of the concrete road, I sort of felt myself out of my body. This might sound hilarious or filmy, as it felt I stood aside and watched my body being dragged along the road with the vehicle. As if death had already taken place, it was just the body that needed to come to terms with the soul that had departed. I fell nearly close to the same place around Baghbazar kalitala , where 8 years back my brother in law had a bike accident and breathed his last.

As the dragging came to a halt, I was still in trans-state not realizing I was still alive. Someone came up and helped me stand up letting me know my shirt and pant was torn from the back and it bled as the skin had exposed the flesh inside. I still somehow remained calm. I could hear someone accusing that I was racing in the merely empty roads. I could see the guy lying at a distance bleeding and holding his head which was not covered by a helmet. As I stood up dusted my clothes, opened up my helmet. People started questioning. To some, I answered, to some I did not. I put on the helmet again and left the scene for my home some 200 meters away.

I came back home as a man battered and bruised. Gradually the pain caught on to me and left me numb on the bed, making me unable to move or even rest on the bed with my back. I wanted to be there at the airport next day to see my loved one from a distance before she had to fly off to the land of her dreams. The night was painful. Left almost to paralysis with heavy bleeding and twisted ankle, bruised back, mentally unstable, emotionally broken to my core I kept checking the phone with my fingers which seemed the only probable moving parts of my body at that moment. That night was long and dreary. All I could do was to lie on one side and stare at the mobile screen hoping for a message from the other end as tears rolled down knowing the phone would stop buzzing from the other end very soon forever.

Life has moved on since then, good bad or better I’m not sure but I ‘m breathing through this eclipse that is still to let some light shine on me.

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Retrospection

Posted by Kaustav Sarkar on February 13, 2018
Posted in: Streets. Leave a comment

Just like that a year passed by. A year of choosing freedom over mundane routined life being the prisoner of making someone’s fortune while counting pennies for my self.

Exactly a year of quitting my corporate job and being my own boss.

A year of taking risks and struggling with it.

A year of changing hobby and passion into a profession.

A year of achieving the so-called fame that faded with time.

A year of confusion and fear of failure.

A year of several months ending with empty pockets.

A year of shedding tears in countless silent nights.

A year of making new friends and losing some.

A year of finding a long-lost love and falling in again for it only to be broken to let go as always.

A year of standing up from being broken again.

A year of relationships formed, lost and formed again.

A year of unchained happiness unable to share with anyone special.

A year of being a misfit trying to fit in the world of my own that I created.

A year of Being and Nothingness.

 

 

 

The Longest Night – A Short Story

Posted by Kaustav Sarkar on August 7, 2017
Posted in: Personal. 2 Comments

He was living in bliss. Bliss, which one could only imagine, to experience in a lifetime. He was probably the happiest man on earth at that moment where time stood still. Freedom was by his side, his bank balance was enough or at least that’s what he thought, friends that once were his everything reunited that day, staying in one of the coziest posh buildings in the city of dreams with once the love of his life in front of his eyes. The sun was setting in the horizon where the skies reflected on the calm waters of the sea at a distance. Looking over through the balcony nets of the high rise building, he closed his eyes, breathing deep, filling his lungs in the breeze from the sea that gave him goose bumps while standing behind her. Feeling the warmth of the setting sun and the simultaneous cold of the approaching dark he smiled to himself while his eyes still shut. This was a smile he held on to for years within himself. The moment that was his, that he had cherished to experience years back but never thought would be a reality and was still hard for him to believe was actually happening in the present. They all laughed and giggled and shared memories of the past and the present, of their worlds that they live in now, of the worlds they would step into in future. He participated sometimes joining in the conversation, while sometimes being silent sinking in every moment which he knows, will hardly ever be able to experience again. He has been building castles out of thin air in his mind, harping on false expectations, words, from their discussions in messages on life, every day, since some time, hallucinating for months. His feet were light on the ground as he was still floating in his dreamland while the reality was soon to throw him off his feet.

Calling him aside, she stood on the balcony of the hallway. The walk from the room to the balcony, a matter of few seconds were bombarded with a million thoughts in his mind till all of it went blank as she spoke flashing her mobile screen on to his face. The brief moment of being special that he felt on being called aside was overshadowed by the words she uttered. It was lightning that struck him from nowhere. All of a sudden the clear blue sky that shone brightly on him till a few moments back, was now dark and despair, as hell broke loose. He was at a loss for words experiencing a simultaneous feeling of exuberance standing by her side, after ages, while feeling the loss from the news of her departure in the months to come. He looked down at the road from the balcony of the 28th floor where he stood, as he felt the ground slipping below his feet. He looked up and the farthest his eyes could reach only saw darkness of the never ending sea and the sky as they merged to one. All he could think of then was to hug her tight, hold her in his arms and let the tears speak for the words he could not utter. He was interrupted in his thoughts by the presence of one of her chosen few before he could move his body that was frozen in time. Quickly back on his feet, shaking up his inner self he put on the invisible mask of a happy face. While he retained the smile on his face, his eyes struggled to hold back what was not meant to be seen. Soon there was dinner on the table for all of them and the fleeting moment was framed to be captured, shared, and cherished for a later time of reminiscence. He poured in a bit more dal than he usually consumes, a glass of water, just in case it was still harder to gulp in the rice as his throats felt choking.

He could only hear words and not understand, as he was not listening to details on which they were chattering after dinner. Neither he could concentrate nor could he recall what was being spoken just a second ago, as his mind searched for sanity in the chaos that was building within. The beds were made and the tiredness of the day seemed to catch up with everyone but him. She dozed off on the bed leaning against the frame of the bed towards the wall. Her right side of the bed was still vacant as other friends had taken their respective places to rest or found a space to have a call with their loved one. Inches away from her, pretending to sleep he hoped she dozed off on his shoulder in the numbness of her sleep. His hands were craving to run them through the curly mess of hairs on her head; she had made, rolling on the bed while she was awake. He couldn’t!  All he could do was, wait, till either sleep caught up with him or he had to vacate the place which he occupied temporarily from the absence of the other friend while she continued on her phone on the adjacent balcony of the room. Looking over at her, he realized she could hurt her neck in the way she slept but he did not have the permission to touch her no matter how much he cared. Asking her to realign herself or sleep as supposed to be, he got up and quickly checked on the friend in the balcony and started taking impatient walks in the room. One last time, he went there to the bed and rested by her side pulling over the quilt on her. Staring at her face which seemed as innocent and vulnerable as a blooming bud, he lay by her side before conscience struck him. What if? She freaks out on opening her eyes the next moment and no matter how much he wanted to be by her side for the night, he did not have her consent. He got up a few seconds later going back to the bed on the floor that was meant for him. It was night enough; the friend in the balcony was done with her call and came to take the place where he desired to be.

It was a long night for him. The longest night he had experienced. Sleep failed to catch up with him, as he lay in the bed on the floor staring at the white ceiling, listening to the gentle grumbling of the ac and the infrequent snoring of his friends. The ticking of the watch on his wrist that rested on his head constantly made him aware of the fading moments of bliss. Restless as he was, he lay back and then sat up several times checking on her as she twisted and turned in her subconscious state of sleep. While she squeezed herself in the artificial cold of the room ac, he was burning from the heat of anger on his fate. He was sweating in anguish that was tearing him apart from within. Breathing heavy as the air felt thin to him, he walked out into the adjacent balcony. The weather was humid outside but it helped him breathe better. In the silence of the night and the flashing of the distant city lights, he stared at the construction sites overlooking his building, wondering! He wondered how time and tide was never in his favor, how he wanted a chance to appreciate the beauty in their differences and harp on the similarities. It never felt such gloomy in a long while. His breath had normalized by then as he went inside the cold room. Life felt aimless with no definite directions, defeated purposes and lost hopes filled his imaginations. Trying to sleep again but failing in a short while, he went back to the balcony, wondering if he could do anything to change himself or his future that he was looking up, to give it a chance, to start afresh but all in vain by then. As insane and weird as it might sound, he wished he had a cigar and choked in its smoke as he didn’t smoke in regular. All weird thoughts started catching up on him, filling him up in the places of his mind that searched for a reason to justify his existence. He watched the darkness of the night give way to the light of the morning. His eyes still heavy without sleep, and mind numbed by the inflicted pain of absurd thoughts, he tried to recall the last time he saw the sun, rise, only to be eclipsed in the shadow of the moon that he desired to reach and call his own.

That morning a soul breathed its last, while a mass of flesh bones and blood took to the regular task of a mortal, counting days till the inevitable.

 

VALENTINE’S Day

Posted by Kaustav Sarkar on February 14, 2017
Posted in: Personal. 1 Comment

It’s been long, like way to long to have written something. It’s another day , another Tuesday but a Valentine’s Day as they call it. Well, I didn’t find my love so I’m trying to find a way to love me more than before. To give into what I love somehow doing, than depending on people for love that hardly came my way.

It was just another day but without any routine, any expectation any rules. Just a day as it was but with memories of little things that touch today,that necessarily is not love anymore but a shadow of myself that I used to be. The memories are an ode to those little things I cherish about, that made them special to remember and smile when I look back at the times gone by.

Today I am free, free from the burden of scoring in class examination, free from the expectation of trying to be someone in life, to prove to the society , to prove to my parents, free from the thought of meeting the expectations of job, free from the thought that there is anybody out there waiting for me or me waiting for anyone. No hopes no expectations no feelings of pain or pleasure. Some days are just empty , today was one such day.

I have quit my first job and I know not where life will lead to. Today was the first day I stopped being a slave to the the societal rules and norms of what an average life should be. All day I looked at the watch and tried to match as to what I did at this hour of the day just a day before when I was in a full time job. Honestly a part of me was scared , it still is and will be so for sometime I know but there is also a satisfaction of making the call that I wanted to do for long but could not gather up the courage to do so. May be the upcoming days will be depressing, frustrating, I will curse myself for quitting my job, will run away from family and known faces for having to answer the same question again and again. May be someday I will get back to this life of slave forced by circumstances, till then, I want to try being someone different. The road is tough and I am alone in this journey but some little things, some words like “I believe in you” might help me keep walking the path of trial and error till I make any further decision.

You know not who, when, how comes to your help even without their knowledge. I waited for approval from my close ones, parents, friends but never said it to them. Some joked, some gave advice, some started listing pros and cons. What I wanted to hear was “go ahead I believe u can”. Then someday someone said this to me a few weeks back  “I believe in you”. The decision I was wanting to take became easier. Somehow I gained a confidence, how I don’t know but I remembered how I used to be confidant back in the days when that someone was around.That very someone had said a few days earlier to this -what have I done to prove to my parents that they will believe in me. That didn’t go down very well with me as I was not prepared for such a statement and suffered questioning myself for a week till the lump in my throat subsided and I started to a peaceful sleep at night. I know not how to respond to all this but these little things, that touch and go.

Virtual relations command today on social media than what used to be real someday in the past. You realize time and tide has moved things way past that you can not reach any closer but only drift farther apart. You have nothing else more to do than smile back to yourself when you meet after years of silence and in the tension of the moment you can not put in the jack of your helmet’s belt. That someone watches over it standing by your side, seeing you fidgeting with the thing, still trying hard but does not lend a helping hand because you do not share that space anymore. Only a voice you hear from the covers outside the helmet that you have been putting the jack in wrong place all these time.

Someone admires you and then you admire someone, the never ending chain goes on and on for few people. Some people are like parallel lines of rail tracks. In ways more than one they feel, look similar or are heading to a similar unknown journey they know not where but they are travelling together ignoring each other’s conscious presence in a forbidden distance that at times tend to meet but they never meet.

Hampta Pass Trek

Posted by Kaustav Sarkar on August 17, 2016
Posted in: Travel Diaries. Tagged: Chandratal, Easy to Moderate Trek, Hampta Pass, Hampta Pass Trek, hiking, Himachal Pradesh, HPTDC, IndiaTravel, Lonely Planet, Lonely Planet India, Monsoon Trek, Natgeo Traveller, Spiti Valley, Travel Photography, Traveldiaries, trek, Trek for beginners, Trek The Himalayas, trekking, Trekking in Hampta Pass, Trekking in Himalayas, trekking in India, TTH. Leave a comment

Mountains are places where you come to terms with nature and appreciate its wonders that are mostly taken for granted. It melts down your earthly pride and materialistic glories that define you amidst humans. It strips an individual from the shades of city comforts and tests their mettle in the wilderness, bridging the gap with nature that seems to have widened by man himself. This was my first time experience of trekking in the Himalayas, going for the Hampta Pass Trek in Himachal Pradesh, India, with Trek The Himalayas (TTH).

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My brother, Anindya had just completed his first trek with TTH to Kuari Pass on December, 2015, when he called me, of how motivating and refreshing it was and would love to tick all the rest of the treks in the list. From the day he returned home, he kept on sharing his experience for the next few days refusing to stop, texting, calling, messaging on Facebook about his desire to do more such treks. Being motivated by his words we planned The Great Lakes Kashmir, for July 2016. Seven months of preparations, excitement, and curiosity were all blown up as the turmoil in the Kashmir valley began from 8th July, 2016. We waited for the last few days for things to settle down but fate had some other things planned for us. Finally, we had to call it a day as the trek got cancelled, with a heavy heart we had to shift our plans to trek The Hampta Pass.

 

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We went in with zero expectation and no research, being drained of the enthusiasm, emotions and the energy for not being able to be in Kashmir Valley. As my bad luck continued, I got my phone stolen from the weary journey of nearly 35 hours, in express train, that got dragged even longer by a delay of 5 hours. We landed in Chandigarh railway station early morning, with feeble mind and body. Somehow, gathering up whatever strength was left in us from the previous two days of journey, we got ready for another dreadful journey of 10 hours to Manali.

manali-holiday-resort

 

Day 1: 31st July, 2016. The sun filtering through the embroidered curtains of our hotel rooms woke us up for the commencement of a new day.  We reached Rambagh Chowk in Manali, the place all members trekking with TTH for Hampta Pass were to meet at around 9:30 am. While we introduced ourselves to each other and took the instruction of the trek guides, we came to know most of us were first time trekkers in the Himalayas. The members hailed from varied backgrounds and ages ranging from 14 to nearly 50 something. My brother had already struck a chord on social media, before the trek days with three musicians, Abhinav, Nakul Krishna and Sanjay who were in the trek with us. Fate was not done with me yet I guess.

Hampta Pass Trek- In car

Our car stopped nearly a mile and a half before reaching Jobra, the starting point of our trek, approximately 15 kms from Manali.  An empty fuel tank forced us to stop, as fuel leaked from it all the way up the mountains. We luckily stopped by a family, who offered us tea, as we waited for another car to arrive for the rest of the ride with our luggage. After our luggage was sorted and distributed for the mules to carry, we embarked on our journey. Roshan Thakur, our trek guide led the way while Nitin, our official trek leader, accompanied the trekkers in middle of the chain and Bakshi Ram with his cheerful character stayed back, making sure the last few trekkers fall in line with the rest ahead.  Being a photo enthusiast I started trailing behind the rest, absorbing the scenic beauties and carefully framing them in my camera.

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Crossing over the first few uneven terrains, small bridges over streams running down from the high up mountains at nearby sight, I kept on collecting memories in the memory cards of my camera. First few steps through the dense vegetation of trees brought us to an open field with lush green mountains on one side and a steep rocky one on the other. The sun had started playing hide and seeks, casting dark shadows on the mountains, adding textures to the brightly lit green meadows. High on energy and enthusiasm the members had scaled up the mountains in no time. Trailing at last, my curious eyes continuously searched for a perfect moment of memory to be framed.

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Early into the trek Mr. Kiran Bhatia from Dubai struggled with his heavy bag pack climbing up the rocky terrain. Bakshi Ram kept motivating us to follow the others and not fall far behind. Unchained horses grazed the lush green mountains by our side. The river flowed at a distance babbling, burbling, and dribbling through the timeworn rocks that lay on its course, at times splashing against them changing its path. Women in groups sang hymns playing dholaks asking us to join in the middle of nowhere in the valley, surrounded by mountains.

Hampta Pass Jobra Woman Playing Dholak in valley
Hampta Pass TTH Trekkers crossing bridge on river

Crossing over a huge rock we came to our first halt for the day in a tea store set up in tents by a local, for refreshment of the trekkers. For some the tea felt bliss, while for the rest, the bowl of maggi never tasted better. By the evening after a walk of nearly three and half hours to four we reached our first Camp site in Chika or Cheeka. The ones, leading the trek had already started pitching their tents, guided and assisted by the TTH group staff and other trek members. Learning to put up the tent was a sense of achievement in itself as it went beyond the learning of a text book or the computers. As soon as the tents were up, tea and snacks in the form of papads and pakoras were served to us. It felt delicious. There is a certain joy of experiencing unexpectedly the readily available foods of city life in a mountainous background beyond hotel rooms and human establishments.

Hampta Pass Trek- waterfall in Cheeka
Hampta Pass Trek-Drinking water from stream

A waterfall at a distance, high up than our camp site, lured some of the young legs in the group to climb higher. The senior members gradually followed and the cameras and iPhones started flashing the smiling faces.  A sudden change in weather and clouds started taking cover. Like a CGI scene in an animated movie, we saw the clouds coming from behind the mountains gliding across the valley reducing the visibility to a few meters in vicinity. While all were lost in gossips for a while, a cow took to advantage, swiping clean the bowl of sauce and the plate of leftover snacks. Soon the lights for the day faded, dampness set in, making us feel the chill in the air to be experienced further by the night. A hot spicy bowl of tomato soup was what made the taste buds tingle with joy and heat us for the cold night ahead. Sumptuous dinner by 8 and a small get together in a make shift tent for the night marked our day’s end.

Hampta Pass Trek- passing under a waterfall
Hampta Pass Trek- Trekkers on route to Balu ka Ghera

Day 2: 1st, August, 2016. A thumping knock on the tent and a cup of lemon tea was with which we woke up to a rainy morning. It had rained most of the night and muddy patches developed outside of the tents. Trekking gives you opportunity to experience a plethora of beautiful moments in a span of few days that one yearns for, may be throughout the year. One such moment for me was the light drizzles that made rain drops collect on the pockets in the plates with grooves, on which we were having our breakfast. These moments are rare and hard to appreciate as they go missing from being noticed in our everyday hustle. This very moment that felt blissful in the mountains might seem to be irritating on the context of a city life.

After breakfast at 7 am, packing our luggage and tents we got ready to set foot for Balu-ka-Ghera, our next destination at 8:30 am. The rain refused to stop as it varied from heavy showers to drizzles at intervals. Abi and Nellie, two American girls in the trek were way ahead of the rest, followed by the Bhatia siblings, Dhriti and Hans, all four in their teens and in a better physical shape and condition than the rest. A few hours of climb and the rains had stopped by then. We reached a point going below a waterfall, partly drenched, when we were surrounded by sheep all over who were coming downhill guided by their shepherd.

Hampta Pass Trek- Flock of Sheep and Shepherd

It was such a rare beautiful sight and experience to cherish. The climb uphill and the sun beginning to shine above raised the temperature to strip off our warm covers. The rain in the morning had delayed our start and our trek leaders feared we have to cross a stream that gains depth as the day proceeds. However, their experience found a sweet spot for all of us to cross the stream in least trouble. The water was chilling cold. A sense of numbness prevailed in the feet for few minutes after crossing the stream hand in hand, forming short human chain of three to four, sticking together against the drifting current of the fast flowing stream.

Hampta Pass Trek- River Crossing
Hampta Pass Trek- River Crossing_1

 

The fresh weather perfectly suited for a break to loosen up our muscles and fill our stomachs with the lunch packs from TTH. The half an hour of refreshment infused new energy into all of us to march ahead for the rest of the day’s trek through the remaining meadows after crossing over the mountainous terrains in the first half of the day. Abhinav, the drummer, seemed lost in the tranquility as he started playing drums in the air, in sync to the tunes of his favorite tracks playing from iPod on the large headphones resting on his bald head.

Hampta Pass Trek- Abhinav the Drummer
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As we walked through the meadows pink and yellow flowers bloomed along the path making the valley even more adorable. Around 5 in the evening we reached our destination welcomed by rain. A severe headache grasped some of us after having scaled a higher altitude, neglecting drinking enough water as prescribed by our trek guides.

Hampta Pass Trek-View from Indside the Tent

Day 3: 2nd August, 2016. The day that we were all waiting for, to reach the summit of 14,100 ft, the highest point in our trek of the Hampta Pass had arrived. It was going to be the toughest and the longest trek of all the days. Rain had refused to stop for the second consecutive day. This made us feel the easy to moderate trek as labeled by the trek authorities, to turn into difficult for beginners. The day mostly remained cloudy, with drizzles accompanying us all the way. Somehow we were caught in the middle of a mixed feeling of desire to see a brighter better sunnier view and the comfort of a cool cloudy weather.

Hampta Pass Trek- Roshan Thakur our trek guide
Hampta Pass Trek- Trek guide looking over trekkers as they follow his path
Hampta Pass Trek- river flowing down from glacier
Hampta Pass Trek- walking through clouds
Hampta Pass Trek- The mules carrying luggages of Trekkers

The American family of Gold-Pastor teens seemed like having a cake-walk in the rocky terrain, while the Bhatia siblings accompanied by another musician drummer Sanjay, scaled heights away from the tracks in the cliffs by the side, as others gasped for a normalcy in their breath from the long walks. The Karnani family seemed unstoppable, moving steadily behind the teens, even though burdened with their bag packs. The elder wiser minds of the American economist couple, Gonzalo and Judith, who used to find their alternative shortcuts than following in the footsteps of others, caught up shortly, with the ones leading in the troop. The rest of us, more or less traveled together following up these few that reached the halt points before us and were cheered by the predecessors from a distance, clapping, encouraging from far as we succeeded them. Some of us were exuberant by being able to walk on hard ice, below which roaring waters flowed in a stream. Being an avid tourist visiting some of the highest mountainous terrains in Himalayas since childhood from close and afar, I could feel the delight that showed on their countenance.

Hampta Pass Trek- Climbing Cliff
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Hampta Pass Trek- helping hand

Being obsessed with photographing, I still prayed in my mind for the sun to shine upon the mountains and the rains to halt, for a better picture to be framed in my camera when I reach the summit. My mind had shut otherwise. Harsh weather had made it worst of the conditions to climb the last few hundred meters of steep ascent to the summit. Reduced visibility, feet slipping on mud, stumbling on rocks, gasping for breath, we trudged along, chattering our teeth in response to the falling temperature exacerbated by rain and strong wind.  Our couple from Bangalore, Saurabh and Tanvi, who had injured herself on way up the summit in the last few hundred meters, was constantly motivated by our trek guide, Bakshi Ram, with his motivating words, songs and dance to cheer her up while enduring the pain from injury.

Hampta Pass Trek- The Summit
Hampta Pass Trek- Walking over Glacier
Hampta Pass Trek- Into the Wild

Finally the moment came where we reached the highest point of our trek. The moment was short lived for those, who reached late and too long for the rest, who reached first, sticking by, waiting for the rest to arrive for a group shot, in the unfavorable weather conditions. The descent downhill was tougher than we thought as the paths were too slippery and the downward forward momentum even made it difficult to grip on the mud tracks in between rocks. While we were on way downhill, from a distance the campsite of Sheagoru could be seen, still not ready, although few staff and members had reached. The brothers from Jaipur, Akash and Ashish, were leading in the middle with Divya Bhatia, my brother Anindya, Nakul, Nanda Kishore and myself trudging along guided by Bakshi Ram. Bakshi had taken the trouble of carrying luggage of three individual trekkers on to himself relieving them of their struggle and stress in the climb uphill. In a moment of quick response he took a decision to reach the valley to prepare the tents for us before we arrive. Bakshi, a man of lean structure, with super ability to carry luggage, beyond his weight and apparent physical strength, ran down the mountains like a super human being in no time. Before we could locate him he disappeared only to be found later in the camp site, cooking, preparing our evening snack with a smiling face, while the tents were made ready by him already, to be occupied by us trekkers, after the strenuous day.

Hampta Pass Trek- Seagoru Camp Site

Starting at 8:30 am in the morning and reaching at about 4:30 pm, taking the average time of all, we had finally completed the hardest part of the trek and were relieved. The evening seemed beautiful even than the previous day. Some parts of the sky cleared to give a glimpse of the mountain range that enveloped the valley of Sheagoru. The wind was strong and the loose ends of the tents flattered like the wings of a bird while the toilet tents at a distance formed weird shapes like the fake fire balloons on display in the concerts or events. Wild horses chased each other in playful manner in the open valley by our camp site; giving us a rare sight to cherish of what freedom feels like for animals and why they seem better in their natural habitat than in human captivity. Being exhausted by the day we had lost track of time and before we could ponder on the thoughts of having achieved something, tiredness dawned on us.

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Day 4: 3rd August, 2016. It had been raining since previous night but to our amazement, it stopped by early morning. The sun was shining bright and we were cheerful, with no dark clouds in vicinity. The day started by crossing over three streams of water one separated by the other by a narrow patch of land, with support of ropes held together by our guides. Dipping our toes at first and then being knee deep with mistaken footsteps, into the coldest water of the trek we experienced so far, in the stream, coming down from the glacier behind us. After successfully crossing the stream we all had to heat up getting the numbness in our feet to come to normalcy. Thus, we started a dance like form as done in tribal events, where we gathered together in a circle and danced in and out of synchronization. This was the easiest trek of all days descending from the mountains in a sunny day. Starting at 9 AM in the morning we reached Chatru, our final campsite by 1:30 PM. Cars were waiting for us at Chatru from where we left for Chandratal – the Moon Lake.

on-way-to-chandratal
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chandratal-lake

 

Leaving behind the lush green meadows and mountains, dancing inside our car from the highly uneven road, cut out from the rocky mountains, we headed through the dry barren valley surrounded by dry rocky mountains, leading to Chandratal. As we entered the Spiti valley, the landscape had changed drastically. I have previously been to the Spiti Valley, Kaza and Ladakh, so was quite familiar with the landscape, while the others, specially my brother found it amazing, witnessing his long cherished desires of visiting the dry valley of Spiti come to fulfillment.

Hampta Pass Trek- Batal Vridge on Chandr River
Hampta Pass Trek- Inside Chandra Dhaba
Hampta Pass Trek- Dhaba Woman cooking

We stopped by some local establishments for refreshment at Chandra Dhaba in Batal, some 14 kms before reaching the Chandratal. Crossing over a bridge over the Chandra River, we moved from Batal to the mountains that led the roads to Chandratal. The food is decent here, rajma chawal is the hot favorite preferred by many and readily available, which according to some of our trekkers tasted good, other stationary stuff, chips, biscuits are available too at a marginal cost extra than the MRP.

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Clouds floated like heaps of cotton in the clear blue sky. The Chandra River below appeared like a flowing stream of liquid silver, reflecting light from the sun shining behind the mountains to our left. The barren brownish yellow mountains, gilded by the sun in the base and veiled by milky white snow at the helm welcomed us afar. Nearly one and a half miles before the lake, our cars were parked. We had to walk down the cirque to the lake for a mile or two.

Hampta Pass Trek- Car Halt point before Chandratal

 

The blue waters reflecting the skies with the Chandrabhanga range in its backdrop, made us go wild with joy and cameras flashing for the next hour or so till the sun rays started fading. The vastness of the lake, never felt enough for me watching from a single direction bounded by time limit. My heart ached to walk on the other sides and discover other angles to view the lake than usual. Some travelers from Israel stayed back cherishing the setting sun on the lake as the rest of the travelers, tourists and trekkers started evacuating. It got dark outside as we made our journey back to Chatru camp site. A huge cake marking the end of the celebrated achievement awaited us in the dining tent, where we had our last dinner together in the trek with all members.

Hampta Pass Trek- Chandrabhanga Mountains
Hampta Pass Trek- Chandrabhanga Mountains
Hampta Pass Trek- Chandrabhanga Mountains Sunset

Day 5: 4th August, 2016. Nitin, the trek leader who generally awoke us every morning with a thumping knock on the tent and a cup of tea, spared a few more minutes on this final day before waking us up. It never felt so good, with no rush for the day to trek, less of packing and above all a bright sunny day with cheerful smiles of accomplishments on everyone’s face we greeted each other peeping out of our tents. The last few days of pain and pleasure had yet not sunk in while we had to do the most difficult task of the trek, packing our sleeping bags and putting back into their case. Believe me, it is not as easy as it seems while in its pouch bag.

Hampta Pass Trek- Certificate Distribution

Hot tea, puri and sabji for breakfast, gave way to distributing our certificates of achievement and a few words of our individual experiences coupled with emotions from the everlasting memories that had got etched in the pages of our lives in the past few days. The last few words of inspiration came from our trek leader to motivate, making us pledge to continue on this journey of trekking and exploring the Himalayas that we have embarked upon. Later, all dispersed loading our luggage on the cars, packing our tents for the final time and bidding goodbye to some wonderful memories, scenic beauties and a group of strangers that became a new family in the past few days.

Hampta Pass Trek- Last Dinner together
Hampta Pass Trek- Kitche Staff
Hampta Pass Trek - The Cake

 

For some of us who still had time in the evening and the rest who had to board a bus to Delhi later in the evening, we all met for the final time at Johnson’s Cafe & Lodge, in Manali, where the American family was staying. We shared a slice of our daily lives, moments that we recalled from the trip and laughed in unbounded enthusiasm, forgetting everything and anything that withheld us from such experiences in the daily hustle of struggle for existence, over plates of delicious food and drinks, for the one last time.

Hampta Pass Trek- At Johnson's Cafe Lodge Manali

A man of few words, shying away from pictures, preserving his anonymity with no footprint in social media and modern day human socialization.Yet a man of strong character, mentally and physically, Nitin, our trek leader, to whom life and its struggles had submitted before his indomitable spirit, said a short shayari (poem) on being asked to express his views on the trek before we all parted. This kept lingering in my mind.

Hampta Pass Trek- Trek Leader Nitin

“Khuda Ki Banai Aisi Qudrat Nahi Dekhi (Have not seen such a creation by the almighty)
Dilon Main Chupi Aisi Daulat Nahi Dekhi
(Have not seen the wealth hidden in the heart of people)
Jo Kehta Hai K Doorion Se Mit Jati Hai Dosti
(Those who say friendship ceases to exist with distance)
Us Ney Shayad Hamari Dosti Nahi Dekhi.“
(May be, he has yet not seen our friendship)

For more pictures visit the link :-  http://kaustavsarkar.com/hampta-pass-trek/

Bhutan

Posted by Kaustav Sarkar on June 24, 2016
Posted in: Travel Diaries. Tagged: Bhutan, Bhutan Tourism, BhutanPanoramicImages, BHutanTravelDiaries, Chelela Pass, Dochula Pass, Druk Air, Druk Air Corporation Limited, GNH, GrossNationalHappiness, Happiness, LandofThunderDragon, Lonely Planet Bhutan, Panoramic Bhutan, Paro, Photography, Punakha, PunakhaDzong, Royal Bhutan Airlines, Thimpu, Tiger's Nest, Tourism Council of Bhutan, travel, TravelPhotography, Visit Bhutan. Leave a comment

Note:  All images are without watermark to let viewers have an uninterrupted glance from corner to corner of each frame of the images. Please do not copy or distribute for commercial purpose.

The Land of The Thunder Dragon, popularly known as Bhutan (Drukyul- called locally), is a tiny land locked Himalayan Shangri-La in between two other ancient giants, India and China. Bhutan, with a sparse population of around 7,00,00 and nearly 70%  forest reserve, is governed in a constitutional monarchy by the King and the Queen who are worshiped as almighty in their Kingdom of Happiness.

India Gate between Bhutan and India

Gate between India and Bhutan

 

Being Indian, my family members and me had the liberty of travelling to this pristine country without the need of visa or passport and a mandatory tourist guide as required by other foreigners. Though some prior permissions are required on paper, it is not that difficult a task. It was a short trip of hardly a week. Being a Bengali, we had the perfect gateway planned in for the holidays during Durga Puja. One might be wondering which Bengali on earth would abstain from the once in a year majestic celebration of the Durga Pujas? Well you have the answer now. I hail from a small town, called Chandannagore, some 40 odd kms from Kolkata. We have our own majestic celebration of the Jagadhatri Puja, much similar in way of celebration to the Durga Puja but restricted only to certain places in Bengal.

So in the month of October 2015, we set out for our journey to Bhutan from the Howrah station. An overnight travel in the Kanchankanya express brought us through the forested landscapes of Dooars in West Bengal, to Hasimara. This station Hasimara, serves as the starting point for tourists from Bengal and other states of India to travel to Phuntsholing, the entrance to Bhutan from its southern borders with India. As the train stopped, our driver and guide was waiting with a red Travera for our 8 member family. Packing up the luggage, we set off for the pristine journey only to be welcomed by the rain gods before we could enter Bhutan. Well, the road up to Bhutan is not a very comfortable journey, and to add more to the dismal start, we got stuck in a traffic jam owing to a marriage celebration that took to roads. Running out of options and empty stomach forced us to break off for a lunch in a hotel just outside the entry gate to Bhutan. While the food ordered by us was being prepared we got an opportunity to catch a glimpse of a wedding celebration in the Hills. Unfortunately, the cameras were still packed and we missed out on framing the celebration.

Thimpu , Capital city Bhutan

Bhutan Thimpu Valley, Capital city of Bhutan

By the time we reached Thimpu, the sun went into hiding behind the mountains. The chilling winds zoomed by our ears, greeting us with the pleasant weather of the mountains as we stepped out of our car, giving goose bumps. Our hotel though not very expensive, but offered a scenic view even at night of the hills and the establishments below in the valley.

Capital City Thimpu View

Thimpu Valley

The next day was for local site seeing. Our first attraction for the day was the Buddha point, located just a few miles from Thimpu in Kuenselphodrang Nature Park. The place had a massive statue of Lord Buddha. The Buddha Dordenma Statue made of bronze, gilded with gold stands at 51.5 metres being one of the largest in the world. It sits on a throne that houses a mediation hall with 1,25,000 such small structures of Lord Buddha built similarly with bronze and gilded with gold. The area has a massive opening space around it providing panoramic view of Thimpu.

Inside Buddha Dordenma, Buddha Point
Inside Buddha Dordenma
Inside Buddha Dordenma, Lord Buddha Miniature Structures
Buddha Point
Buddha Dordenma, Buddha Point

While descending from the Buddha point, our driver acquainted us with the view of the dwelling pace of the King and the Queen. The area is well restricted and can be seen from a view point downhill from Buddha point. The area also has some of the essential government buildings of the nation. Next, in list was the handicraft museum. Not stunning but might suit to the taste of some people.

Bhutan Thimpu Government Buildings and dwelling place of King and Queen
Bhutan Thimpu Government Buildings

We headed out for lunch, in one of the restaurants; the driver thought would suit our taste buds being Indians and prone to spicy flavors. Food is costly and the less one talks about the better it is. Indians for sure would be disappointed with the flavors, no matter from which part of India you belong. The cost of food items were really shocking. Hailing from an average middle class Bengali family accustomed to foods, cheap beyond imagination and taste beyond perfection, the cost was unacceptable to start with. Just to give a glimpse, a plain chapati, with the size of a puri, could range from about INR 15 to INR 25, a piece of omelet at INR 50 to INR 60 which is actually 3 to 5 times the normal rate in West Bengal. Well, one shouldn’t compare as the land is in difficult terrains. So we sunk in the shock and let ourselves get overwhelmed by the beauty of the land.

Buddha Art Gallery
In the lawns of the Buddha Art Gallery
View of Bhutan Thimpu Valley
View of Bhutan Thimpu Valley

 

As the evening dawned on us, we head out for the market. Unlike other bustling market places, here it seemed much more organized and peaceful, clean. The traffic guards take control, who look lovely in their black uniforms. The splendid thing about Bhutan is that every piece of material reflects their willingness to retain their culture and tradition, while embracing modernity. Even the police posts and designed in the traditional Bhutanese architecture. The evening light feels warm and beautiful on the skin. The gradual warmth of the setting sun and the cool breeze of the approaching night could provoke one to stroll through the ascent and descent of the roads for long enough as one feels like.

People of Bhutan
Bhutan Police and Police Post

The following morning we set forth for Punakha. A short distance of a few hours’ drive turned  a nightmare as we saw a long line of cars queued up. It was Sunday, official workers were on leave and there was no one to remove the boulders from the early morning landslide. However, I should appreciate the quick service, within no time police and respective personnel for the job were on site and started clearing the road. Unfortunately, the matter was more complex than it seemed initially and we got stranded for over an hour.

Dochula Pass
Dochula Pass Cloud Covered
My family members at Dochula Pass

Once the traffic resumed normalcy, we reached the Dochu La Pass, where there are 108 Chortens (Buddhist Shrines).  The area is quite picturesque and provides a panoramic view of the mountains around. As fate would have it, the delay in the journey made sure the clouds covered the surrounding mountains which played hide and seek as the clouds hovered over them. Afternoons are not always sunny and clear in mountains like in plains, it was around 12 noon and covered with blankets of clouds. It was the peak point in our journey to Punakha from Thimpu , after which the roads gradually descended into the Punakha valley.

Punakha Valley

Punakha Valley in the lap of the mountains

The Punakha valley is beautiful and simplistic to look at from a distance across the Puna Tsang Chu river. Its nearly a 3 hour drive of 72 kms from Thimpu that once used to be the capital of Bhutan. Not much of a civilization exists in Punakha, the building and hotels are similar in structure, evenly arranged in blocks. While crossing the Puna Tsang Chu River, the burned ruins of the old Punkha Dzong atop the hill is visible in warm orange hue of the setting sun.

Old Burned Abandoned Punakha Dzong

Old Burned Abandoned Punakha Dzong

 

The arrangement of the buildings in neat planned blocks with the traditional architecture gives a sense of amalgamation of the western and the eastern civilization. The road in and out of Punakha runs along the river side. The place is quiet enough to let the sound of the waters of the flowing river reach your senses. Even with enough light of the establishments around, the night sky is prominent with stars. A walk down the empty lanes, with children playing around gives a sense of a childhood lost in technology and mundane life taking over in adulthood.

Punakha Panoramic View
Panoramic View of Punakha from our Hotel Window
Panoramic View of the planned town of Punakha
Panoramic View of the planned town of Punakha
Punakha night view, of the planned town
Punakha night view, of the planned town

Our tour was bit weird as we first went to Thimpu, then Punkaha and then to Paro crossing over Thimpu in the way to Paro from Punakha again. On way next day, we went to The Punakha Dzong. It stands at the confluence of the rivers Pho(father) Chu and Mo(Mother) Chu. The Dzong is better experienced than explained, as words fall short. I will leave it to one’s own understanding that could be made out with the pictures below.

Old Monk at Punakha Dzong
Old Monk at Punakha Dzong
Punakha Dzong Main Entrance
Punakha Dzong Main Entrance
Panoramic View of the Backyard of the Punakha Dzong
Panoramic View of the Backyard of the Punakha Dzong
View of the Backyard of the Punakha Dzong
View of the Backyard of the Punakha Dzong
View of Punakha Dzong across the Punakha Chu
View of Punakha Dzong across the Punakha Chu
Inside Punakha Dzong
Inside Punakha Dzong
Bridge to Punakha Dzong main building over Punakha Chu River
Bridge to Punakha Dzong main building over Punakha Chu River
Bridge in Punakha Dzong

 

As the path from Punakha to Thimpu was similar as we had come, we thought may be luck would give us a chance to see the Dochu La Pass without the cloud cover, but no. So without a halt we were on route to Paro. The scenic beauty by the roads to Paro did seem better than that to Thimpu from Phuntsoling.

On way to Paro

On way to PARO

 

The entire road stretch throughout the country seems well maintained, though at the entry to Paro, the road running by the only international airport base in Paro was rough. It was early evening by the time we reached Paro. Our hotel was located on the outskirts of the city in the lap of nature, which for me was perfect.

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Panoramic View from Balcony of Paro Hotel

Panoramic View from Balcony of Paro Hotel

Panoramic View from Balcony of Paro Hotel

Next morning I woke up to a blissful sunrise in a comfy bed. The view of sun kissed glass of the windows, cold from the overnight chilling weather outside, gathering droplets of water running down its skin shining with the sparks of a precious stone were disturbed by my father yelling at me to get ready for the day. A short trip doesn’t allow the flexibility to rest always as there is a lot on the platter than that could be touched upon. We started at about 8 in the morning towards Chele La Pass. It is at an elevation of 13000 ft, considered to be one of the highest motorable passes in Bhutan. About an hour and half drive from Paro, the road up to the pass leads through lush valleys, rice paddies, bucolic villages, pine and rhododendron forest. The pass provides stunning views of the sacred mountain Jomolhari and Jichu Drake.

Jomolhari and Jichu Drake Mountains
Jomolhari and Jichu Drake Mountains
on way to chelela pass, red and green flora
on way to chelela pass, red and green flora
On way to Chelela Pass
On way to Chelela Pass
View of Jomolhari and Jichu Drake Mountains from Car
View of Jomolhari and Jichu Drake Mountains from Car
Chelela Pass Sign Board
Chelela Pass Sign Board
panoramic View from the Chelela Pass
panoramic View from the Chelela Pass

 

Descending from the Chelela Pass there comes a point from where the total stretch of the Paro Airport , the only national airport of Bhutan can be seen.

Paro Airport, Druke Airways,

Panoramic View of Paro Airport and the Runway

There is lot of tourist attractions in Paro but being a Buddhist Country, the obvious attractions are its Dzongs. Rinpung Dzong was out next stop from Chele La Pass.

Panoramic View outside Paro Dzong
Rinpung Dzong , Paro
View from Rinpung Dzong , Paro
Inside Paro Rinpung Dzong
Paro Rinpung Dzong

From the balcony of the Dzong, the valley of Paro and the only international airport of Bhutan with its runway could be seen. One needs to be extremely lucky as there are only two flights to Bhutan operated only by their national carrier, Druke airways, twice a day.

Bhutan Paro Airport Runway
Bhutan Paro Airport Runway
Druke Airways Flight landing at Paro
Druke Airways Flight landing at Paro
Druke Airways Flight, Paro Airport, Bhutan
Druke Airways Flight, Paro Airport, Bhutan

Descending from the Paro Dzong, we went to one of the oldest temples in Bhutan, Kyichu Lhakhang, (also known as Kyerchu Temple or Lho Kyerchu) situated in Lango Gewog.

Kyichu Lhakhang Temple- Paro -Bhutan

Panoramic View of Kyichu Lhakhang Temple, Paro,Bhutan

 

Our final destination was the Tiger’s Nest, which we had to observe from a distance unfortunately due to shortage of time and having aged members in the family, unable to trek .

Tiger's Nest Monastry uo in the mountains
Tiger's Nest Monastry in the shadow of light
Tiger's nest Monastry
Tiger’s nest Monastry

The day could not have ended without a visit to the Paro market, where the women in the family went on to collect gifts and souvenirs. To my surprise, I came across a road side event performed by school kids on some occasion.

Paro market gathering function.

The following day we bid adieu to Bhutan and headed back home from Paro.

The greatest thing about Bhutan is that you come back with a sense of tranquility. The slow paced life style , the serene beauty untouched by human encroachments, the amalgamation of human culture civilization with a sense of respect to nature, the wind that set sails through your veins a sensation of composure from the daily hustle of a modern day city life culminates into  a sense of unity of the the mind and the soul of an individual.

Young Monk

for more images of Bhutan refer to  this link Bhutan

 

 

 

 

 

Jagadhatri Puja – Chandannagar 2015

Posted by Kaustav Sarkar on June 2, 2016
Posted in: Festivals. Tagged: celebrations, chandannagar, chandannagore, chandernagore, custom, Festivals, festive, hooghly, jagadhatri puja, jagadhatri puja 2015, pandals, puja, tradition, west bengal. Leave a comment





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